Other than asado, empanadas are probaby Argentina’s most traditional food. They are also one of its most popular. They are widely available at restaurants, cafes, bakeries, pizzerias and, of course, empanada shops. I’ve always held that empanadas are the perfect food. They are portable, you can eat them anywhere (often with little mess), some are good hot or cold, eat one and it’s a snack, eat a few and you have a whole meal. Mike seems to have adopted this philosophy as he pretty much had an empanada or two (or three or four) every day we were in Argentina. Of course, he swore that mine are better than anything he tried, but he’s a smart man.
As far as I can tell there are three basic types of empanadas: fritas, al horno and souffle. Baked empanadas are most common and most popular, they are lower in fat, easier to make (deep friers are still a novelty in Argentina) and they can be eaten at room temperature or reheated without loss in quality. Fried empanadas are considered more traditional, and when we’ve had them we’ve remarked at how good they are. Still, I don’t think they are probably worth the extra calories. Souffle empanadas are a variant of fried empanadas, according to my quick research on the web they are made by taking the empanadas out of a cold refrigerator and quickly introducing them into very hot oil. The results are fluffier empanada with a drier dough. We only had them the last two days we were in Argentina, at an empanada place in La Plata called El Ladrillo (where my parents used to buy them decades ago) and they were amazingly good. Yep, even better than mine.
As for fillings, the standard ones are beef, chicken, ham and cheese and humita (corn). Also popular are Roquefort cheese (they must mix it with another cheese, I’d like to find out which), Napolitanas (with tomato, ham and cheese), onion and spinach. In some places we tried empanadas
Author: marga (Page 89 of 114)
I’ve concluded that Argentine pizza is an acquired taste. Not one difficult to acquire, mind you, but I have to admit that we didn’t enjoy that first bite of a pizza in Argentina nearly as much as we did subsequent ones. By the end of the trip, I, at least, greatly preferred it to American pizza (with the exception of Zachary’s, of course).
Argentine pizza tends to have a bready thin-to-medium crust which tastes quite good on its own. It’s covered by a extremely thin layer of tomato sauce, so thin that sometimes I wondered if it had any sauce at all, and then by a ton of mozarella cheese and whatever other topping you’ve chosen (the choices are usually much fewer than in the US, ham being the most common one). Each slice then is decorated by a green olive and, sometimes, by a slice of preserved red pepper. Oregano is sprinkled on the pizza before baking. Most often pizza is baked in a pan, though some places serve pizza a la piedra, or pizza baked on a stone. I can’t say that I’ve noticed a significant difference between the two.
Argentine mozarella cheese, like all diary products, tastes different from American mozarella and I think that might be the reason why Argentine pizza is tastier. In general, diary products in Argentina are just good (all that Pampa grass is good for something). Though of course, having a pizza that just oozes cheese everywhere doesn’t hurt – your average Argentine pizza probably has at least 3 times as much cheese as your average American pizza.
What was perhaps most amazing to me is that Argentine pizzas were served just about everywhere, and they were just as good whether served at a pizzeria, a regular restaurant, a cafe or made at home from a pre-pizza (a la Boboli). Indeed, even the frozen pizzas were much tastiers than the ones here. Pizza is also quite cheap, we generally paid between U$2-3 for a “large”pizza, which was probably 8” in diameter but was large enough for the 4 of us (of course, 2 of us are under the age of 4).
The *only* place where we had a pizza we didn’t like was a restaurant in Mar del Plata (forgot the name) where they show a movie with your lunch. I guess that’s enough to get the tourists in, and they don’t have to bother to make even passable pizza. Needless to say we only went once.
Even the pizza at the tenedores libres, or buffets, was quite good.
Tonight we’re babysitting and our usual ritual on babysitting nights is to order pizza – and truth be told, I wish I could have an Argentinian pizza rather than an American one.
I haven’t updated this blog for the last month and half or so ’cause I’ve been visiting my home country of Argentina. Though Argentinian food offers little variety it can be quite good and satisfying. Indeed both Mike and I were surprised that by the end of our trip we weren’t craving for any particular food from back home (California) and would have been quite happy to eat another empanada, milanesa or steak.
Rather than writing a whole posting about eating in Argentina, which feels too daunting now, I thought I’d write whatever comes to mind in individual postings. Hope you enjoy it.
A couple of days ago Mike had dinner with a friend at Le Charm in San Francisco, at my suggestion (I saw good things about it posted online). He didn’t come home happy. The overall meal wasn’t bad. As an appetizer he had the House Made Boudin Noir Sausage with Toasted Walnuts, apples and Currants ($8). The sausage was not cased and had a funny texture (but perhaps that’s the case for blood sausages) but it was very tasty and he gave it a thumbs up. His friend had the Hot Goat Cheese and Smoked Salmon Terrine ($8) and she seemed to like it, ate it all without making any comments. As a main dish, she had the Confit of Wild Boar Shoulder with Spa
I knew that all the time I wasted in craigslist had to be good for something. Today I found out that the green part of green onions make a good substitute for chives. Apparently many restaurants use them as a matter of course (and still call them chives). I never have chives around, but often I have green onions so this will work great for me.
I came across this cheese at PW Supermarket and gave it a try. It was wonderful. Though it’s only double cream, it is the creamiest cheese I’ve ever tasted, it’s texture was pure silkness and every bite (on sourdough baguette) seemed like a luxury. I also loved the taste, milder and less bitter than brie. It was quite a hit with my omnivorous 10-month old too.
Our Safeway (the one on Washington Ave. in downtown San Leandro) got yuppisized last summer, and the process seems to continue. Today I found that they’re selling Bhutanese Red Rice, forbidden rice and another gourmet rice which until recently I had to go to Berkeley to find. They had some cool multi-colored couscous, though no Israeli couscous yet. And they are expanding their line of organic products, they have organic ice cream now (haven’t tried it yet). Stil, I couldn’t find any Jerusalem artichokes there either.
I’ve been in San Leandro for almost 6 years now, and yet I just discovered PW Market in Castro Valley. I’ve received their flyers all along, but as they weren’t local to me I always just tossed them in the recycle bin. Then my friend Regina mentioned she was going to go there to get some pastries for our tea last Sunday and she took me along.
PW could be described as a quasi-upscale supermarket. Most of the products it carries are those that you can find at most supermarkets, but it does have great meat and deli departments. Granted, we’re only a couple of days from Thanksgiving but when we visited they had goose, pheasant and rabbit available in addition to turkeys and chickens. Their meat department features prime-grade beef (something which is hard to find at retail stores) at very reasonable prices. Their lamb offerings, however, were poorer. The two racks of lamb I saw looked sad and I couldn’t see any lamb shanks. They did seem to have a large variety of seafood, however.
We were quite impressed by their cheese section, it didn’t feature many local favorites like Whole Food does, but there was a wide variety and the one French brie we got was delicious.
Their deli offered plenty of pasta-style salads, and their bakery section though small is very nice. We got a couple of lemon bars, a little mocha cheesecake, some scones and an apple bread pudding and they were all delicious.
On the minus side, they didn’t seem to carry much in the exotic ingredient category. I couldn’t find either Jerusalem artichokes or Israeli couscous there.
I haven’t blogged in a long time. I’m not sure why – or rather, it’s become quite clear to me that I can no longer juggle all aspects of my life: house, children, family, husband, work, friends, entertaining, cooking, writing, reading, etc. I can handle a few at the time, but not all. I can’t short change my family, but everything else must be put aside from time to time. Lately, I’ve done a good job of keeping the house clean, planned our upcoming trip to Argentina, threw a big Halloween party and a small screening of the Wal-Mart movie, and done quite a lot of other things. I haven’t cooked much, though, and have done absolutely no writing. It’s time for that to change.
So let me start by writing about turkey. I hate turkey.
I love the concept of turkey, don’t get me wrong. It’s a beautiful bird, perfectly golden it dresses a table as nothing else. I love the traditions around it, the idea that people all over this country are having variations of the same meal tickles my traditionalist bone.
I encountered my first turkey at my first Thanksgiving dinner, a mere month or so after first arriving to this country. I don’t remember the food as well as I remember the discomfort of the situation. We were having dinner with the family of the husband of the sister of the nun who had taken care of my sister when she’d been a baby. They were people we didn’t know and who, other than the sister, didn’t speak Spanish. I was 12, an age at which I didn’t want to be around adults, much less complete strangers. Still, it was a good introduction to the holiday.
In the following years, my dad would sometimes get a turkey for Thanksgiving. Supermarkets often given them out for free, and my parents are not people to reject a free gift. I ate leg meat and in general I was fine with it. At least I don’t remember any differently.
It wasn’t until my last year of college that I cooked a turkey myself. My best friend had come for the long weekend and for whatever reason we decided to have Thanksgiving dinner. We were joined by J., another friend from Egypt, and an Egyptian friend of his. I found a recipe in the newspaper for orange glaced turkey, and even though it was my first big meal, I had no problem following it. The results was a perfectly cooked turkey with the yummiest, most beautiful skin ever – and turkey-tasting meat underneath ( to make the glace mix orange juice with honey and brown sugar and baste the turkey every 20 minutes for the last hour or so). But hey, the skin was worth it.
In the years to come I roasted turkeys a few more times and continued to be unexcited about the meat. I also ate turkey cooked by others with the same reaction. A couple of times my friend Lola made goose for Thanksgiving, and I loved it – but the times I tried to cook it, I didn’t do a very good job of it. When I went back to hosting Thanksgiving dinner a couple of years back, I forwent the turkey altogether and made a Basque dinner featuring chicken instead (along with foie gras and other goodies).
Then last year I decided that I had to give turkeys one last try. I wanted to get a Heritage turkey, but I didn’t order on on time and instead I bought an organic free range turkey. I brined it, made a good recipe and the turkey was good – for a turkey. But it was still a turkey. And no matter how much I want to like turkey, it’s still a dry, tasteless bird.
Needless to say, this year I’m not making turkey.
I do want to make something special, however. I like the idea of celebrating Thanksgiving with something that I’m not going to make at any other time of the year, something that will have us all look forward to it all year. Like turkey – but actually good. I want it to be something big, that can make a great centerpiece at the table, and that I can make year after year.
Prime rib roast could be a logical choice, but I made that last Xmas eve and I think it’ll become our Xmas eve tradition. I first thought about making lamb shanks – a braise seemed like a logical thing for this time of year and I’ve yet to cook lamb shanks at all. Plus, they could be served with all the traditional Thanksgiving side dishes. But hard as I tried I couldn’t get excited about lamb shanks. They are not big, they are not rare and they just don’t scream “special occation” to me. So I decided to make a lamb rack instead. It’s not particularly big but it’s high price tag (about $13 a pound for a cut that is mostly bones) guarantees that I won’t be making it often (indeed I have yet to make it, precisely for that reason). And it can have a beautiful presentation. So I looked up recipes on the internet and I settled on the following menu:
–Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Lemon and Saffron
–Rack of Lamb with Red Currant Wine Sauce
–Toasted Israeli Couscous with Pine Nuts & Parsley
–Sweet Corn Tomalito
-Green Beans Almondine
and some storebought dessert
I tasted an amazing Jerusalem artichoke soup at Aziza last year, and I’d love to try it again. The lamb recipe got high accolades at epicurious – and I’m pretty fond of sweet sauces in general. Which such a delicate meat and sweet sauce, however, traditional Thanksgiving side dishes wouldn’t work so I spent quite a while figuring out what to serve (now that Camila won’t let me read while I feed her, I have plenty of time to think of things as she nurses herself to sleep). Couscous is my starch of choice when serving sweet dishes, and the one time I had Israeli couscous I loved it. Plus it’s pretty popular now when regular Maghrebi couscous has become passe. The corn tomalito is another sweet yet gentle dish that I love but have never made, and while it won’t look too different from the couscous, it’ll have a completely different flavor. Asparagus might work best as the vegetable – but Mike doesn’t like it, so the very simple green beans almondine seemed like the best choice.
The menu seemed both mouth watering and well balanced and I was excited about cooking it – until today. Today, is when I went shopping for the ingredients.
It would probably have been a better idea to have Mike drop me off at the different supermarkets while he did something else with the kids. As it was, they were both very tired, very grumpy, and very loud. I usually like shopping, but tonight it was sheer torture. So much so that I realized that I’m just not emotionally ready to cook a big meal on Thursday.
I always look forward to cooking as something fun and relaxing. I often try to do too much so it seldom is (and soon I’ll blog about my Halloween party, when this became very clear), and often time it becomes stressful rather than fun. Though usually I can revel on the fruits of my efforts at dinner time. But still, I haven’t started cooking yet and I’m tired and stressed – that’s how I’m supposed to feel at the end of the cooking day, not the day before! Of course, part of the stress is that I couldn’t find some of the key ingredients: the Jerusalem Artichokes, the Israeli couscous and the rack of lamb. OK, they had the former, but I thought the ones at Costco looked better so I was planning to send Mike to buy it tomorrow.
So I decided I have to simplify things. Instead of doing a rack of lamb, I’ll do a leg of lamb. That’s something that we make during the year, but I have a recipe which is both simple and delicious. Plus I can serve it with the typical Thanksgiving dishes, so my new menu is:
–Persimmon soup (as I have so many persimmons)
–Armenian Roast Leg of Lamb
–Sweet Corn Tomalito (already bought the masa)
-Garlic Mashed Potatoes
-Baked apples & yams (maybe, if I have time, for the girls)
-Stouffer Stuffing (’cause it’s easy and I like it)
-Green Beans almondine
Some Safeway bought dessert.
and that’s that. Won’t be grand but I’m sure it’ll be better than turkey.
This restaurant is closed
Another restaurant I’ve been remissed in reviewing is Tuttle’s Sea Garden on Bancroft. The little restaurant had skipped our radar until our daughter started going to daycare in the Broadmoor district and we started to go by in on a daily basis. One time when we both picked her up (September 2005) we decided to stop for lunch and see what they had to offer.
The little restaurant has a counter and a small, informal dining room, but it’s clearly mostly a take-out place. Still, it’s much nicer than most BBQ joints, a perfeclty fine place to have lunch. At about 1 pm on a weekday, however, we were the only people eating there, though several came to pick up orders.
The menu basically consists of fried fish and chicken and BBQ meats. The day we were there they were out of the BBQ beef so instead I went with the BBQ Ribs ($11 for 4, $13 for 6 large ribs). They were good, the meat was very tender but they had the consistency of ribs that had been boiled rather than slowly barbecued. The BBQ sauce was nice, not very spicy, though still not as good as E&J’s. The ribs come with potato salad, coleslaw or fries – I had the latter and honestly can’t remember them 🙂
Mike had the catfish ($7.75 for 3 pieces), which he thought was quite good, though couldn’t elaborate on how.
We still prefer E&J’s for our BBQ needs, but Tuttle’s is a perfectly acceptable place to go.
Tuttle’s Seafood Garden
395 Bancroft Ave.
San Leandro, CA.
510.635.5911
Tu-Sa 11am-9pm
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