When I was a child, I hated orange marmalade. I associated it with hard toast and tea at my grandmother’s friends homes. I felt those old ladies were cheap and wouldn’t spring for the good stuff, strawberry or raspberry jam.

Now that I’m old myself, I know better. There is nothing quite as delicious as the bittersweetness of a good orange marmalade. A good orange marmalade is complex, outrageously bitter – a stand in for the biggest tragedies in life -, while bright and sweet – for the nicest memories. For two decades now, orange marmalade has been my favorite.

While I love orange marmalade, I’m not a big jam eater in the first place, so I didn’t have any at hand when I decided to make a roasted lamb recipe that called for it. Rather than go for my usual grocery store marmalade, I decided to do a bit research as to what is considered the best orange marmalade out there. Surprisingly, it’s not always the fancy brands. Wilkin & Sons ‘Tiptree’ Orange marmalade might look fancy – because it comes from England, it has a weird name and an old-fashioned label -, but in England it sells for just $3.70 for the 12 oz bottle (at today’s exchange rate). Of course, it was over twice as much in the US – $8 at Amazon, to be exact – but that was actually less than many other imported marmalades.

Unlike American – and other imported – marmalades, this one lists only two ingredients: sugar and seville oranges. It has plenty of slices of orange peel and a rather thick consistency. It’s very adult and absolutely delicious. It is a tad too sweet, but just a tad. Despite its low original price, it feels like a high quality marmalade. I like it.