I’m a relatively new convert to mayonnaise. As a kid and young adult I always avoided it. At some point, however, probably around the time I became a fan of Nation’s, which smothers its burgers in mayo, I started to dig it. But I would have been a much earlier and greater fan of mayo if I had tasted Duke’s Real Mayonnaise before. Simply, this is the best mayo I’ve ever had and it elevates mayo to previously unimagined heights.

That’s a wild thing to say about a product that is not only over a hundred years old, but apparently wildly popular in a large part of the country (the South). Still, I had never heard of it, not even in passing or while cooking any of the southern cuisines I explored.

This mayo has a very intense flavor that won’t be easily hidden behind others. It’s made with soybean oil and egg yolks, and gains its sour notes from distilled and apple vinegar. They almost, but not quite, fooled me into thinking it was lemon juice. It doesn’t have added sugar, which apparently detracts rather than enhance the natural flavor of the mayonnaise. I think it would be great to dip French fries in or for chicken salads.

Once only sold in the South, Duke’s is now available nationwide and even internationally. I found it at my neighborhood Safeway on sale for $4 for the 30oz jar (normally $8).

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